Hiking Scafell through the Eskdale Valley, Lake District

There were many aspects of lockdown that I really enjoyed, and I found it such a valuable time to be able to explore new things; some that may be fleeting, but others that I hope to stick with longer term. What I was most grateful for was the time I had to just be; without feeling pressured to run around here, there and everywhere every weekend pursuing all my outdoor hobbies. I do think it changed my outlook on outdoor adventures. I think it will make me value them more when I am lucky enough to do them; but also value the time I have at home to reflect on those experiences, and make them more worthwhile.

This first trip back to the Lake District after lockdown was everything I wished for and more. A long day out in the hills with my loved ones (Harvey and Oslo), dramatic views, burning thighs and a little bit of adventure. As neither Harvey nor I had ever hiked Scafell Pike — the highest point in England — we decided to make the peak our destination, and plotted a 10-11 mile walk to Scafell through the Eskdale Valley, starting on Hardknott Pass.

As soon as we set off from the car — after making the 2 hour drive from Yorkshire that morning — the heavens opened and the waterproofs went on. The Lake District greeted us back in the only way it knows how, but I love it anyway. Hiking along the River Esk was beautiful, with deep blue plunge pools scattered along the river which would have been all too tempting to dive into on a slightly less damp day of hiking.

When the steep gradient subsided, we found ourselves immersed in the otherworldly valley of Great Moss. Seemingly the only souls for miles around, we lapped up the grand crags, low clouds and wide views and vowed to return with a couple of bivi bags one day soon.

When we left Great Moss behind, we walked directly into the clouds to began the strenuous climb towards the summit of Scafell. With paths vague and the rain now tumbling down, we lost the track at one point before quickly realising our mistake and continuing the climb towards Scafell. Just below the summit, the rain stopped and there was not a drop of wind so we enjoyed our lunch at the summit with a few other people who had come up different tracks.

We had some difficulty navigating from the summit. Initially heading in the direction we believed the path to be, we then ended up on the more popular track that heads down to Wasdale. After retracing our steps, we fortunately found a split in the track, took a bearing and discovered this was the right track for us. The descent was long and arduous after so long away from the higher fells, but the rain cleared and the views were marvellous as ever in the Lake District.

If you’re planning on doing this route, I would suggest being comfortable with navigation (compass and map skills) and/or use an electronic GPS as well, especially in difficult conditions like we had. I would also advise that the route is fairly challenging in the steeper sections so only tackle this route if you are experienced and fit! I definitely found it tough after so many months of mostly being sat down or doing less strenuous exercise in lockdown… but it got me so excited for many more adventures in the hills this summer and beyond :)

See you soon!

Athena